Mon Abi Gabi 2300 N. Lincoln Park W Chicago, IL 60614-3456 Phone:  (773) 348-8886  The Scene Dark wood, low lighting and a buzzing, crowded bar make for a casual, warm atmosphere. This is not the place for a quiet dinner date, but groups of friends in the mood for a chatty evening will adore this tightly packed room. The Food  Francophiles rejoice--from the baguette in a bag to bubbling-hot escargots and meal-ending profiteroles, Mon Ami Gabi serves simple, delicious French classics. Aside from the tempting escargots, sea scallops gratinée are a rich, creamy starter that's not to be missed. Paper-wrapped Chilean sea bass is tops among Gabi's seafood options: light, subtle, and flavorful, balanced perfectly by a medley of vegetables. No fewer than eight steaks round out the menu--each served with Gabi's light, crispy frites. Try the Roquefort, splashed with a tangy roquefort cheese butter, or the Bordelaise, with a sumptious mushroom and red wine sauce. Dessert classics include an impressive tarte tatin, profiteroles and chocolate mousse. The wine list is impressive but unintimidating, heavy on the French reds, with a good selection in the $25-$50 range.